Growing Tomatoes Organically

Maggies Garden Forum: Seasonal Chats: Growing Tomatoes Organically


By Maggie on Monday, February 23, 2004 - 12:14 am: Edit Post

I love it when we hear from far away visitors.
Josie in Llanfihangel-ar-arth, Wales wrote in the following:

“”Just found your site when I was looking for hints for growing fab tomatoes. Obviously we do not have the climate here in Wales that you enjoy for the best results -but I do have a greenhouse and I intend to follow your guides. One tip I have come across says to cut off the lower branches when the plant is young (with scissors) and so enabling the plant to be buried deeper and a larger root system will develop - hence a stronger more productive plant - do you agree?””

Yes, Josie it works wonders. Roots develop all along the buried part of the stem, creating a larger rootball.

The very best tomatoes I ever grew came from an American Indian technique of using fish to improve the soil condition and nutrients. I buried the cleanings from a fishing trip about 10” deep in fall. Come spring, I forked the area deeply before planting the seedlings and didn’t use any other fertilizer that entire season. The plants grew 4 to 5 ft tall, 3 to 4 ft wide and were loaded with fruit. A large predator spider, known as the ‘zipper spider' took care of any undesirable pests.

I remember how Brit gardeners would pinch out leaf buds of greenhouse tomatoes at the axis of branch and trunk to prevent excess branches developing, to keep them from shading ripening fruits. In our more intense sunlight, we have the opposite problem!

Here is our organic garden writer’s, Gail Morris, guide to growing organic tomatoes. Although geared to North Texas, the natural tending and feeding program would apply universally.

Growing tomatoes organically not only benefits the soil, it is great for your family’s health. An important step to successfully grow tomatoes in this area is choosing varieties that are disease resistant and heat tolerant.

At least twice during the growing season sidedress and water-in an organic fertilizer at 25 to 30 pounds per 1,000 square feet or a palm-full per plant. Good choices are compost, cottonseed meal or fishmeal. Toss the fertilizer in the root area and lightly scratch into the soil or water in. The first fertilization should be when the first fruit are still tiny. Use mulch to deter insects and weeds and help keep moisture level even. Even moisture is important for a successful harvest. Water the soil, not the foliage to avoid diseases. Water slowly and deeply.

If the wind does not blow this spring or you have no bees in the garden to pollinate, then shake your tomato plants. This tactic has proved to increase production in greenhouses that do not receive wind. Take hold of a firm area of the plant’s stalk or hold the tomato cage and shake.

To foliar feed your plants, lightly spray compost tea every few weeks on the plant’s foliage and deter insect pests. To make compost tea, fill a container half full of manure compost. Add equal parts of water to fill the container. Allow the solution to ferment for at least 48 hours. Strain the solids and dilute the solution to an ice-tea color (4 to 10 parts water to one part compost). For just a few plants, a convenient process is to tie compost in cheesecloth or old hosiery and hang it over the edge of a container. After at least 48 hours, just remove the material containing the compost. Compost tea is sold in premixed solutions at local garden centers that carry organic products.

In combination with compost tea or separate, spray foliage with fish and seaweed, vinegar, Epsom salt and molasses (one tablespoon of each per gallon of water) every two weeks. This spray will deter aphids from sucking on the young growth of the plants. A strong stream of water or release of lady beetles (lady bugs) or green lacewings can also fight pests.

Occasionally, thrips will not allow blossoms to set. Signs of thrip damage are streaks or black spots on plants. The entire plant can take on a streaked, dull, grayish cast. Treat organically using a garlic tea spray (homemade or commercial) or a neem product which is sold in at local garden centers. To make a homemade garlic tea, chop three garlic bulbs in a blender with two cups of water. Strain out the solids. Make a spray by diluting 1/4 cup of the tea with 1 gallon of water. Store remainder of concentrate in a plastic container with a loose-fitting lid. Do not use a glass container with a tight lid or the solution will explode. Shake well before each use. Spider mites also dislike the garlic spray or a spray of water. Spraying every three days during a nine-day period should solve the problem of thrips or spider mites.

Early blight is another plant disease. It begins on the oldest leaves, low on a plant where it is dark and moist. Leaves begin to look sickly, turn brown or yellow and hang loosely from the stem. Black spot appears in dark spots on foliage. Powdery mildew is a whitish powdery look on foliage. Brown patch and other fungal diseases are discoloration on foliage. Control all these fungal diseases with a baking soda spray. Mix four teaspoons with one teaspoon of a veggie oil or horticultural oil into one gallon of water.

Spray any of these solutions during the cool morning hours to avoid quick evaporation.

Good tomato varieties for North Texas are Better Boy, Brandywine, Carnival, Celebrity, Porter, Roma, Salsa, Super Fantastic, Supersonic, Sweet 100s, and Viva Italia. When purchasing tomatoes, buy a companion plant to attract pests that may infest tomato plants. Companion plant with borage, basil, carrots, chives, onions, parsley and peppers. Some companion plants lure pests to them and away from the tomato. Others act as a repellant because of their aroma.


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